The KIMONO VEST is made with the traditional shape of the Kimono...in other words...the side seam is straight so if your figure is not you must make some adjustments. The band collar is made of a straight strip that goes around the back of the neck and down the front. The bands are not meant to cross over in the front. In fact...the style is that of a traditional Haori Kimono...which is a jacket worn over the Kimono. So the bands in the front do not have to meet...they coud be a few inches apart which gives you a chance to show off your garment underneath.
The gold and black Kimono Vest (shown above) is color blocked and the bamboo applique cover where the two fabrics meet. Fan shapes are satin stitched and the circle in the center is made by tracing a salt shaker. This technique can be used with the Self Collar & Cuff Jacket. If you prefer just a solid color vest or jacket...just place the applique on the diagonal, vertical, or horizontal. Consider using a variety of shapes such as flowers and leaves. Scroll down to see how fabric designs are "fussy cut" and placed in a pleasing manner. You can set them in place with fusible web and combine edge finishing methods such as "raw edge" applique and "satin stitch" applique. These additional design elements are not included in the pattern. The bamboo and fan shapes can be found in my book, Art To Wear With Asian Flair.
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The Self Collar & Cuff Jacket
The Self Collar & Cuff Jacket is a great basic jacket that was designed to be reversible. There are to versions for the front. One version includes a "self" collar. The collar is attached to the front pattern piece so it is easy, peasy! The other front version doesn't have a collar and looks for like a cardigan "V" front. To see a version of this view, scroll down to the red silk jacket.
The back is the same for both with a center seam.
The version with the self collar includes pockets that are flat and subtle. Since it is reversible....the other side (working as the lining or inside of the jacket at the moment) also has pockets and is a great safety feature when traveling. So, two beautiful fabrics are selected...two jackets are made...one placed inside the other....and bias strips sewn around the perimeter is the finish.
A layer of muslin, flannel, or batting is placed between the two jackets. Depending on the temperature: here in Florida a pre washed muslin is all we need; if it's chilly where you live or you require some "loft" for quilting, consider pre washed flannel; and if you've pieced some fabric to be quilted, use some light weight batting.
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This is my favorite version of the Self Collar & Cuff Jacket. This jacket is reversible and made of two jackets. One side is made solely of the bright print fabric from Kona Bay Fabrics (this exact fabric is no longer available but they may offer something similar...this is their wholesale site but you can always contact your local shop for the fabrics). The other side is made of solid black and embellished with "fussy cut" shapes taken from the bright print fabric. I now use "Jet Black" quilting cotton from Michal Miller Fabrics. This sample was not. When you use the Jet Black (it's like velvet and the light just sinks into it) the wrinkles don't show and the free motion quilting just sinks into the fabric....like butter! I love food analogies.
The fussy cut flowers were stitched with free motion and satin stitching. The satin stitching gives it dimension and allows the 30 weight rayon thread to shine. The free motion stitching allows you to place thread in all the nooks and crannies while adding a another texture...especially with metallic threads. Thread paint some of the designs as shown below.
The designs on the back of the jacket are placed in a subtle "S" shape and asymmetrical in the front (see the center photo above). I've embellished one side of the front with fabric applique and smaller applique on the sleeve on the opposite side of the jacket. I used thread painting on one side of the jacket front and used matching thread painting (in a smaller size) on the opposite sleeve.
I apologize for the sequence of photos above. The center photo is taken facing the front of the jacket. The sleeve photos were taken from the back view. Those photos showed the best part of the sleeve. So actually the sleeve photos should be reversed. New photos will have to wait till another day....whew....know what I mean?
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This version of the Self Collar & Cuff Jacket was created with the front that doesn't have a collar and pockets. It was made with silk dupioni and embellished with cotton applique. The applique on the front was "fussy cut" from a Michael Miller fabric of fans. The edges were finished with "raw edge" applique using free motion. Free motion was also used to enhance and add dimension to the details of the design. Metallic thread and Swarovski crystals were used to add sparkle.
The applique on the back was created with Micheal Miller Fabrics Fairy Frost and Asian collections. Use your favorite designs and applique methods. In order to avoid a center seam, I created fan shapes at the top and bottom and edged it with black.
The designs on these jackets are not included in the basic pattern pack. These techniques are used in my workshops. Please contact me if your group of friends or guild might be interested.
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Here's yet another way to create a jacket using the Self Collar & Cuff Jacket pattern. Use batik and prewashed denim. Fold the bias with wrong sides together...place it around the perimeter (following pattern instructions) and sew with a half inch seam allowance from the folded edge. Then fray the edges.
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The Swing & Long Swing Vest# 109
This pattern offers two lengths: one short length that ends just below or at the waist and one long length that ends below the knee (well, I guess it depends how tall you are...Joyce Drexler is really tall...just lengthen by extending the hemline). When you look at the draping folds on the front (of the vest with the longer length) you will notice that they are asymmetrical. The reason for that is this is an "Artsy" vest and some artists tend to like an asymmetrical style. You can use it that way or use the same collar points for each side to create a symmetrical style. A lot of people ask me why a "vest" and not a "jacket". Well, with the vest, it gives you the freedom to layer your clothing. If you are in a hot climate (I live in Florida) you can wear a lightweight blouse underneath. If in a cooler climate you can alternate between a sweater and a long sleeved blouse. You can dress it up with silk or go casual with cotton for a cruise. Hey, join us for a cruise!!! Look on my EVENTS page. This vest can also be made with just one layer of a lightweight fabric with serged edges to create a vest that can be used as a swimsuit coverup (on the cruise). The directions call for two coordinating fabrics. This is a reversible vest. Two vests are assembled and sewn with RST, then turned right side out. The folds in the front reveal the fabric on the underside so be sure to select two fabrics that work together...or not...with the styles now days. Be sure to use a fabric that "drapes" such as rayon batik, silk, poly blends, lightweight linen, chiffon..... This vest is made up of only two pattern pieces: front and back. The back has a pleat that adds to the "swing" style. The skill level is for the novice to the advanced sewer. Great for artist looking for a "canvas" for their artwork.
Kimura Jacket # 201 - front. This jacket was made with cotton batiks. The front closures were created with bias tubes and Asian coins.
Kimura Jacket - back
Close up of the sleeve and pocket.
Sleeve and strip pieced cuff detail.
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